Bio permaculture 04a.3: soil - raised
bed - hill bed
1. Garden bed 2. Raised bed 3.
Hill bed of permaculture 4. Installation of a hill bed
with Sepp Holzer - workshop in Austria (with video) 5.
Installation of a hill bed with Bio Garden Kingdom
(www.biogartenreich.de) (with Video) 6. Permaculture
dam man-high
Raised bed, the layer filling 03 [27] - Hillbed workshop with
Sepp Holzer in Austria [71] - Construction of a hill bed with
stone rim of Bio Garden Kingdom (biogartenreich.de) [97]
Naked soil in the garden, when the bed is
empty, is particularly endangered, because rain compacts
the bare earth and can wash away the top layer [web01]. In
the beginning naked earth is best planted with pioneer
plants, whose roots reach down deep leading moisture into
the deep layers [web01].
1. Garden bed
Rectangular garden beds [11] - garden
division as a mandala, as a mill game, as a board game
etc. [21]
Garden beds should never be too large, so one never
has to enter, otherwise the soil will be
compact and air and waterways in the soil are blocked.
Plants grow slower and the vegetables grow less [web26]. A
garden bed should be at most 1.2m wide, a light sunny
slope is the best position [web38] and should be protected
from the wind [web39].
Compost for the garden bed
"The floor is the kitchen of the garden," explains Vynnie.
With rich soil, the plants have everything they need for
good growth. When essential nutrients are missing, the
soil has to be "fed". The simplest remedy is a compost
heap [with earthworms]. So one can save the fertilizer
from the hardware store [web27].
Forming of garden beds imitating human organs
from Facebook [web05]
The medicinal plant garden of the University of Münster
(North Rhine-Westphalia - Germany): There the garden beds
are shaped like human organs: A guided tour was held there
in 2015:
The visit to the medicinal plant garden in Münster, title
page: Medicinal plant garden of the Institute for
Pharmaceutical Biology and Phytochemistry of the
Westphalian Wilhelms University of Münster (FRG) [100] -
Garden beds in the form of human organs 03: The garden
beds graphics [101]
2. The raised bed
Here are elements of permaculture. The soil is
specifically layered. First of all there are different
forms:
Raised beds of wood, ashlar blocks,
natural stone with mortar, steel [13] - raised bed with
natural border: tree trunk, mesh, boards [18] - raised
beds with tree trunks [24]
The new horticulture is installing more and more raised
beds or converting lawns into raised beds, in various
forms. The best seems the long, rectangular shape, or the
U-shape. Doubling the bed comes out like a chunky M-shape,
or one can also install swinging wave beds, with gemoetric
figures or mosaic pictures, etc.
Forms
of raised beds
Garden bed, raised beds in all forms [1]
U-shaped raised bed [2]
Raised bed in U-shape still undeveloped [5] -
raised bed in U-shape with protective net [6]
Raised bed rectangular with "entrance" [15]
Raised bed in double U, thus M-shape [3]
Raised beds: rectangle with 4 Ms [16]
U-shaped raised bed with door and windscreen
[17]
Long raised beds waist high [20]
Cultivation zone in a pentagon with a hexagon in
the center [8]
Garden in the form of a
mandala garden with raised beds in the form of
rhomboids and triangles with a fountain in the
middle [22]
Square cultivation zone
with raised beds with 4 triangles and 4 long
rectangles on the edges [4]
Raised beds 4 triangles [10]
Cultivation area with raised beds, in the center
a six-star [34]
Raised bed with pallets,
pallet high bed [35] - raised bed with
pallets, pallet raised bed under construction
[36]
Raised beds in form of an L in steps [28]
Round bed with wickerwork [9]
Raised bed pyramid [23]
Herb garden spiral [12]
Raised bed with greenhouse cover [33]
Raised bed circular with
different sized circles small, medium, large
[37]
Raised bed in form of waves [31]
The basic requirement for a fertile raised bed is the
direct contact with the ground, otherwise no earthworms
will come, or one has to add the earthworms by hand to the
raised bed.
One can also put a perforated compost bin in the bed
[web02]:
Raised bed in U-shape with integrated
compost bin with holes [7]
The filling of the raised bed is an art:
The layered raised bed becomes warm and moist (!)
The stratification in the raised bed is original
permaculture. The layers are like a permaculture hillbed.
The common parlance calls it "lasagna stratification". A
rake is a great help. In principle, a
-- Layering from coarse to fine: The layers
develop from coarse (below) to fine (on the top) [web03],
but there is also dung and compost in the "filling":
A raised bed filling with
rake [19] - a raised bed, the earth layers (lasagna
stratification) [25] - a raised bed, the layer
filling 02 [26]
A raised bed can be layered very differently, mostly
there are 4 layers, each 5 to 25cm high [web03].
Example: Layer 1: tree trunks, branches, twigs,
shrub sections, tree sections (they must have dried
for at least 1 year [web32]) for ventilation from
below, press firmly, then: a) bark mulch or leaves on
top of it, press down - or b) press grass cut, straw
or unprinted cardboard on top, press it well [web03] Layer 2: Mix manure or manure with
half-ripe compost, put it on top [web03] Layer 3: Mix garden soil with compost
and put it on top [web03] Layer 4: Apply high-quality garden soil
and place ripe compost on it [ripe compost ist fresh
garden earth] [web03].
This is just one of many variants of permaculture
stratification.
This permaculture stratification causes "heat"
in the raised bed: the compost and manure material is
"degraded", which generates heat, so that the bed is
warmer than the environment. And in the end, the wood
and the logs at the bottom are also degraded. The
degradation of the wood takes about 3 (branches) to 6
years (tree trunks). The raised bed will be as warm as
a small compost heap. This also prolongs the growing
season. In addition, the wood in the bed is a water
reservoir, the wood is soaked with water and is the
water reserve for dry periods: Even in drought times,
the plants grow well when the roots reach the humid
wood:
-- Higher temperature in the raised bed:
The compost, the manure and the wood parts in the
raised bed provoke a higher temperature due to the
degradation of these layers - at around 5 to 8ºC
[web04]
-- Extended cultivation time in autumn:
Due to the higher temperature, the growing time in
autumn is extended [web04]
-- The wood in the raised bed is soaked up with
water like a sponge and is the water
reserve for drought [web33 - 3'51 '' to 4'11 '']
respectively during a drought the wood releases its
water to the soil, the earth remains moist and the
plants continue to grow well [web36]
-- When the roots of the plants reach the moist wood,
there is no need to give water any more,
even during periods of drought [web33 - 3'51 '' to
4'11 '']
-- Mouse wire: The bottom and the inner
sides should be designed against rodents (voles etc.)
with mouse wire or chicken wire [web03] - natural
enemies are present in an intact ecosystem against
mice: Western / Eastern Emerald Lizard, smooth snake,
Aesculapian snake, hedgehog, mouse weasel, mole.
-- Height of the raised bed: For
potatoes already 30cm of height are enough, with
strawberries it should be 1m [?] [web03]
-- All these factors give about 4x more profit per m2
than a "normal" planting bed on the garden's ground
being worked with machinery, fertilizers and
pesticides
-- In a raised bed one does not have to bend down
anymore
-- Frost protection in autumn: raised beds can
be covered with jute bags [web24].
Different layering
options for a "hot" raised bed according to
permaculture
..
Raised bed, the layer
filling 03: 1) Wood / chaffed wood (they
must have dried for at least 1 year
[web32]) - 2) Grass sods
(upturned pieces of grass pasture / lawn) -
3) leaves - 4) manure, half ripe compost -
5) garden soil mixed with ripe compost
[fresh compost soil] [27]
Raised bed, the layer
filling 04: drainage layer with wood
material (must have dried for
at least 1 year [web32])-
sods (upturned pieces of grass pasture /
lawn) - nutrient layer - planting layer [28]
Raised bed, the layers
filling 05: Tree and shrub pieces (they
must have dried for at least 1 year
[web32]), green waste,
garden soil, mature compost, potting soil
[30]
Raised bed, layer filling
06 with wire mesh and black film - 1)
brushwood (must have dried for
at least 1 year [web32]) -
2) grass sods (upturned pieces of grass
pasture / lawn) - 3) raw compost - 4) mature
compost [32]
You can work very well with these warm and always moist
raised beds. In addition, hardly any snails or slugs come
in the raised beds. But:
-- the raised beds cost quite a bit in part
-- the raised beds also delimit the positive soil animals
from the bed.
Plants of warm climates in the permaculture bed
during the first years
The web site of Bio Garden Kingdom (German:
Biogartenreich) also says: A hillbed is warm ("heated") by
the decomposition processes of compost, manure, leaves and
wood. Microorganisms, woodlice and compost worms perform
this degradation process. The hillbed is predestined for
heat-loving plants in the early days, thus: melon,
pumpkin, peppers and tomatoes grow very well [web36].
Permaculture makes this much cheaper with hillbeds, but
the ecosystem has to be intact with all beneficials:
3. The hillbed of permaculture
Permaculture garden, beds in a waving design
[38]
Hillbed 01 [39]
Hillbed 02 [40]
Permaculture hillbeds ending in a mandala circle
bed [47]
Hillbeds forming a mandala,
permaculture farm of Le Bec Hellouin in France
[99]
The tricks with the hillbed
Permaculture arranges hillbeds,
-- Hillbeds have about 50% to 100% MORE surface and
planting area than a flat bed
-- The roots of the plants always remain in the bed, so
that the nutrients concentrate by about 20% to 50% MORE
than in the raised bed
-- Nutrients are released through the chemical reaction
between compost + soil and wood + soil - fertilizer is
NEVER necesary, depending on the wood content of the bed 3
to 6 years
-- The hill bed is warmed up by the chemical reactions
(decomposition process) between compost + earth (with
earthworms), foliage + soil, wood and earth all this
provokes a WARMTH inside - 5 to 8ºC warmer than normal
[web04]
-- The growing season in the autumn is prolonged as in the
raised bed [web04]
-- The wood in the hillbed (must have dried
for at least 1 year [web32]) is soaked
up with water and becomes the source of water for the
plants in dry periods [web33 - 3'51 '' to 4'11 '']
respectively during a drought the wood releases its water
to the soil [ web36]
-- Mulch or dense planting prevents weeds
-- The soil animals can visit the bed and "clean up" there
- snails, slugs and mice have no chance if the ecosystem
is intact (hedgehogs, snakes, mouse weasels and moles eat
mice - slow-moving, alpine salamander and ducks, etc. eat
snails and slugs).
Snails are eaten by: alpine salamander, western and
eastern emerald lizard, forest lizard, hedgehog, toads
(common toad, toad toad), wolf spider and others.
Slugs are eaten by: Alpine salamander, slow-worm, ducks
and others.
Animals that eat mice and young mice: mouse weasel, mole,
snake, Aeskulapian rat snake etc.
Animals that eat only young mice: hedgehog, Western and
Eastern Emerald Lizard, young Aesculapian snake, etc.
The plants in the hillbeds thus benefit from an intact
ecosystem
-- nutrients in the hillbed (no
fertilization necessary)
-- from the heat in the hillbed (like in a
compost heap)
-- from the ever damp wood in the hillside
(therefore dry times are NOT a problem, you do not have to
give water)
-- and a hillbed is 50% to 100% larger than a flat
bed
And hillbeds have even more special features:
-- More sun: a hill bed reaches partially
higher solar radiation than the flat raised bed or a flat
bed on the ground [web04]
-- Rainwater runs by itself: rainwater is
absorbed by the mulch and runs slowly on the hillside
down, causing no erosion and no puddles in the planting
area, this promotes many plants that would otherwise not
survive the steady rain - on the crown a little pan is
installed so that the rainwater is stored dripping the
earth of the hillbed from the top [web04]
The planting of the permaculture hillbed
The planting of hillbeds can be very different.
The planting is different depending on the sunlight
[web04]. In the first two years no vegetables are to be
planted, which absorb a lot of nitrate. After a maximum of
6 years the hill bed has to be renewed [web04].
First years in permaculture beds: plant heat plants
The web site Bio Garden Kingdom (German: Biogartenreich)
also says: A hillside is warm ("heated") by the
decomposition processes of compost, manure, leaves and
wood. Microorganisms, woodlice and compost worms perform
this degradation process. The hillbed in the early time is
predestined for heat-loving plants, so: melon, pumpkin,
peppers and tomatoes grow very well [web36].
And now comes the positive profit warning:
All of these factors in a permaculture hillbed (hillpatch)
give 3 to 4 times more vegetables per m2 per year
than for the expensive machine pesticide agriculture
[web34], and up to 10x higher profits (50 ¤ / m2)
than for machine pesticide farming (5 ¤ / m2),
because all the costs for machinery, pesticides and
fertilizer are gone, one just needs more people working
simple agriculture work there with their hand to cultivate
the hillbeds (hillpatches - as indicated by the permaculture
farm in Le Bec, France [web35]).
Arrange hillside beds next to each other
Building several hillside beds next to each other,
irrigation channels are formed during raining, so that the
accumulated rainwater slowly wets almost the entire
hillside area [web31]:
Arrange
hillside beds side by side - rainwater
accumulates and seeps / trickles away
The watercourse in the
hillbed with collecting channel and terraces
[46]
Permaculture hillbeds end in a circular mandala
bed [47]
Hillbeds arranged side by
side as a ray mandala, permaculture farm of Le
Bec Hellouin, France [99]
The construction of a hillbed (hillpatch)
-- About 1.8m wide
-- The construction in the north-south axis is best for
solar irradiation [or west-east axis for sun plants and
shade plants]
-- One should place a fine-mesh wire net against rodents
(voles)
[-- keep the ecosystem intact so that all beneficial
animals are available against mice, snails and slugs]
and then the stratification comes as in the raised bed:
All layers must be well set, so that no cavities remain:
Construction
of a permaculture hillbed - variations
Layering of the permaculture hillbed 1,2 [41,42]
1) Wood
layer 50cm (must have dried for at
least 1 year [web32])
-- possibility a) high layer of wood with twigs
or chaffed material (so the bed is warmed up for
3 years), the bed gets dry quickly - press all
firmly [with logs in it the bed it will be warm
for about 6 years]
-- possibility b) Perennial cut or hedge
trimming (gives only 2 years of heat), the bed
dries less quickly - good grip
2a) Put grass sods [upturned pieces of grass
pasture / lawn] upside down, approx. 10cm high -
press all firmly walking on it
2b) put a layer with wet leaves 25cm high -
press all firmly walking on it
3) The wet leaf layer is covered with 15cm of
compost - press all firmly walking on it
4) Now come 15cm of good garden soil on it [ripe
compost which is fresh earth soil] [web04].
Layering of permaculture
hillbed variation 03 [43]
5) Garden soil mixed with compost soil, and on
the top a pan is installed for rain water
dripping into the hillbed
4) manure or coarse compost
3) leaf layer
2) Grass sods (upturned pieces of grass meadow /
lawn)
1) Coarse wood material (trunks, wood, branches) (they must have dried for at least 1
year [web32])
Layering of permaculture
hillbed variation 04 [44]
The hilly bed on this pattern is built in a
north-south direction and receives first the
heat from one side of the rising sun, then on
the other side the heat from the setting sun.
The stratification:
Humus layer (the pan on the top is is missing on
the scheme)
Manure or coarse compost
Leaves / foilage
Grass sods (upturned pieces of grass meadow /
lawn)
Coarse wood material (tree trunks, wood,
branches) (they must have dried for at least 1
year [web32])
NO watering on the hillbed (hillpatch): The wood
sucks water + under the mulch moisture is forming
When the hillbed is mulched (see the chapter
about mulching), and when there is wood in the
hillbed that soaks up water like a sponge, and when the
roots of the plants can reach the humid wood, you do not
need to give water, but moisture is formed under the mulch
and the plants can choke water from the humid wood with
their roots [web36].
On the ridge a pan is installed so that the rainwater
seeps and trickles into the interior, otherwise all water
"runs down the slope" [web04].
[When mulched, the mulch also holds up the water. If not
mulched and without pan on the top], all water runs down
"the slope" and takes the earth with it by erosion
[web04].
The soil improves with a hill bed in general
After several years, the hill bed sinks, because the
compost and the wood are then completely degraded and
converted to new humus which needs less volume [web36]. If
at the beginning only chaffed wood was placed in the
hillside, the degradation process takes perhaps 1 to 2
years, when many branches were integrated, 2 to 3 years,
when whole tree trunks are in the hillbed, 5 to 6 years.
After the degrading process, the hillside is then no
longer warm, but the earth is high-quality compost soil
[web36]. Every 2 to 6 years, depending on whether there
are only branches or whole trunks in the hill bed inside,
one has to renew a hillbed (hillpatch).
4. The hillbed of Sepp Holzer - a workshop
in Austria (with Video)
Sepp Holzer is installing the layers of his hillbed in
this workshop installing 6 layers + straw mulch:
-- Coarse deadwood (which has dried for at least 1 year)
-- Grass sods (grassy soil put upside down)
-- Dead wood with dead leaves on it (which has dried for
at least 1 year)
-- Earth
-- Attachment with a net of branches (dead branches)
-- Mull layer (on the top sandy earth?)
-- Sowing action
-- Straw mulch (on the whole bed) [web32].
Hill bed workshop with Sepp Holzer in Austria 01, the
sign [52] - 02, the sward is removed [53] - 03, the
surface is prepared [54]
Hill bed workshop with Sepp Holzer in Austria 04, wood
material is laid on top (first layer) (must have dried
at least during 1 year) [55] - 05 + 06, humus of the sod
is laid on the wood material upside down (second layer)
[56,57]
Hill bed workshop with Sepp Holzer in Austria 07: On the
sods wood material with leaves is put now (third layer)
[58] - 08+09: With some branches wood nails are cut
01,02 [59,60]
Hillbed workshop with Sepp Holzer in
Austria 10: Children hopping on the hillside to secure
it so that no cavities remain [61] - 11: The excavator
rattles on the bed crate so that the earth falls
through the branches and no cavities remain [62] - 12:
Now comes the last layer of earth (fourth layer) [63]
Hill bed workshop with Sepp Holzer
in Austria 13: The earth layer is pushed with a big
hammer filling all the holes between the branches [64]
- 14a: The hill bed is ensured with a branch net 01:
Vertically placed, straight branches [65] - 02: Long
strong branches are placed horizontally and are fixed
with wooden nails at "intersections" [66]
Hillbed workshop with Sepp Holzer in Austria 15: Now
comes a layer of mulch on top of it [67] - 16: Garlic is
planted [68] - 17: The seed mixture is "mixed" with some
soil [69]
Hillbed workshop with Sepp Holzer in Austria 18: The
seed mixture is sown [70] - 19+20: straw mulch is laid
for protection and repeated nutrient enrichment [71,72]
Every branch in the bed releases nutrients. As a
limitation, tree trunks were laid on the flor on the
long side.
Hillbed workshop with Sepp Holzer, the logo of www.permavitae.org
Here is another video where Sepp Holzer shows his hillbed
tecnique in the "USA":
5. The hillbed (hillpatch) of Bio Garden
Kingdom (www.biogartenreich.de - with Video)
Video: Install a hillbed in the
garden (8'56'') (original German: Hügelbeet anlegen im Garten)
Video: Install a hillbed in the garden (8'56'') [web33]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-egIPX6AjU&t=15s
- YouTube channel: Bio-Garten
Reich
The family which has the web site Bio Garden Kingdom (www.biogartenreich.de)
installs a hillbed like this:
-- First the sod is taken away and is put aside
-- Then a pit is made and the earth is put aside
-- Then deadwood (tree waste from the previous year) is
put into the pit
-- Then the grass sods are installed upside down
-- Foliage
-- Dung / manure
-- Foliage
-- The soil from the pit is mixed with compost earth and
is put on the foilage
-- Straw mulch
-- The plantings are made directly through the mulch
[web33].
The movie protocol:
The hillbed is created at the beginning of April on the
north-south axis (49 ''). For example, the vegetables on
the hillside have the maximum amount of sunshine or all
parts roughly equal (1'3 ''). The hillbed is staked out
and then the sward is carefully removed (1'28 ''). It
takes 30 minutes by hand (2'12 ''). [web33]
Construction of a hillbed at Biogartenreich 01: The
sward is removed [74] - 02: the sward is removed [75] -
03: the pit is deep excavated [76]
Then the topmost layer of earth is
removed. This earth is piled up on the side for the
topmost hillside layer (2'35 '').
Construction of a hillbed at Biogartenreich 04: Now
comes the deadwood from branch cuts from the previous
year [77] - 05: The pit has been completely excavated
[78] - 06: The deadwood is laid out 01 [79]
For complete safety or when the ecosystem is not intact, a
mole lattice can be installed in the pit against voles and
moles [web36].
Then it is the deadwood's turn, e.g. with tree cuts from
the year before (2'55 ''). It must be easy to break and
must have no bud approaches (3'14 ''). Because if using
fresh branches for the hillbed, which still have buds, it
may be that the buds sprout and trees will grow in the
hillside (3'41 ''). Then the deadwood is put into the pit
(3'51 ''). The wood absorbs water like a sponge and acts
like a water reservoir. Long roots can reach the damp wood
even in dry seasons, so that they can pull up water even
when dry (4'11 ''). After the wood layer, the upturned
tufts of grass come now being put on the wood, with the
grassy side downwards, so that it does not grow again
(5'11 ''). [Web33]
Construction of a hillbed at Biogartenreich 07: The
deadwood is laid up 02 and now fills the pit [80] - 08:
Now the grass tufts (grass scraps, grass sods) are laid
upside down on the wood [81] - 09: Turned-over grass
tufts (grass scraps, sod)
Construction of a hillbed at
Biogartenreich 10: The tufts of grass (sods) are placed
upside down on the wood layer [83] - 11: The layer with
the upturned tufts of grass (turf) is complete [84] -
The next layer is of leaves and dung (5'27 ''). And then
leaves again (6'0 '').
Construction of a flower bed at
Biogartenreich 13: The first layer of leaves is spread
out [85] - 14: Then follows a layer of manure [86] - 15:
And then another layer of leaves [87]
The nutrient layer for the plants is formed with: leaves
layer - dung layer (cow or horse manure) - and again one
leaves layer. Instead of manure, one can also take coarse,
unripe compost. Microorganisms, bacteria and fungi convert
this nutrient layer into humus soil, a prime soil for
vegetables [web36].
Then it's the turn of the earth which was taken out of the
pit: this earth is mixed with compost earth now and put on
the hillbed (6'30'').
Building a hillbed at Biogartenreich 16: Now it's the
turn of the earth which was taken out of the pit [88] -
17 + 18: Soil earth + compost earth are mixed 01,02
[89,90]
Construction of a hill bed at
Biogartenreich 19: soil + compost soil are mixed 03 [91]
- 20 + 21: soil earth + compost soil mixture is put on
the hill bed 1,2 [92,93]
The earth is not tamped, because on loose soil the plants
grow better [web36]. As last layer a layer of straw mulch
comes on it (7'45 '') [web36]. Installing the hillbed in
summer, one can also use grass clippings as mulch. The
mulch protects against erosion by wind and rain [web36].
Construction of a hillbed near Biogartenreich 22: The
mixture of soil earth and compost earth is applied on
the bed 03 [94] - 23 + 24: Straw mulch on it 1,2 [95,96]
Construction of a hill bed at
Biogartenreich 25 + 26: with a stone rim 1,2 [97,98]
As a rim stones are laid so that the sward does not grow
in the bed, and to protect the hillbed from wild herbs,
therefore also the mulch layer is put. Later the
plantation will be performed penetrating the mulch layer
directly (8'1 ''). The bed is now full of nutrients. In
the first year, one should plant strong-consuming plants,
e.g. pumpkin plants (8'20 ''). Hill beds can be built in
all shapes, ie up to 2 meters high, with real tree trunks
in them (8'48 ''). One can also install a spiral hillside
etc. (8'54 ''). [Web33]
6. The man-sized permaculture dam
Vegetable beds as dikes multiply the surface. The roots
remain inside stabilizing the dike.
Permaculture dam, graphics [45] - Such transverse dams
were erected in China in 1995 on the Loess plateau on
large terraces [48] - close up [49]
China Loess plateau, large terraces with transverse dams
regenerated in 2012 [50] - China Loess plateau,
vegetables grown on large terraces across small fields
economy [51]
Sources
[web01] Australia: Deep green agriculture:
https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/starting-your-permaculture-garden/
[web02] Compost barrel with holes in a garden bed:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/364087951111432667/
[web03] Raised bed filling layers:
https://www.haus.de/garten/hochbeet-befuellen-diese-schichten-steigern-den-ernte-erfolg
[web04] Raised bed at CIA-Wikipedia: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hügelbeet
[web05] Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/anja.manne.9
sent on Sep.15, 2020
Photo sources
[1] Garden beds, raised beds in all forms:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/49680402118586505/
[2] Raised bed in U form:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/AeWH0k3NBLFxVgv9bdz1UX6eIVtouX-Dz96AqHyO00NZ3FWpa4r5f5Q/
[3] Raised bed in double U, M-shape:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/AdtfBbS6YlkkJl6G0vm7pA3L8y1viPiPBH9u0el2ltw1AK3FzH12Zes/
[4] Square cultivation zone with raised beds with 4
triangles and 4 oblong rectangles on the edge:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/730990583244134455/
[5] Raised bed in U-shape still undeveloped:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/256705247496869928/
[6] U-shaped raised bed with protective net:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/256705247496869928/
[7] U-shaped raised bed with integrated, perforated compost
bin: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/364087951111432667/
[8] Cultivation zone forming a pentagon with a hexagon in
the center: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/346003183852507444/
[9] Round beds with wicker:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/81627811981719489/
[10] Raised beds forming 4 triangles:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/620863498606256743/
[11] Rectangular garden beds:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/93027548528582858/
[12] Herb garden spiral:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/542472717597905199/
[13] Raised beds of wood, stone, metal, brick:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/AVCzqR_mebyOshpXdmVJuGbVs8AJcYEqLuv0nS7x4hMrr0O6UqhJGXw/
[14] Pallet vegetable beds:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/864339353460791165/
[15] Raised rectangular bed with "entrance":
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/854065516810817643/
[16] Raised beds: rectangle with 4 Ms:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/483644447465454618/
[17] U-shaped raised bed with door and windscreen:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/17381148541755184/
[18] Raised bed with natural border: tree trunk, braid,
boards: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/317011261260477112/
[19] Raised bed filling with rake:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/519602875753144481/
[20] Long raised beds waist high:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/432486370453479224/
[21] Gardens in the form of mandala, mill game, board games
etc .: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/447897125414954249/
[22] Garden in the form of a mandala garden with raised beds
in the form of rhomboids and triangles:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/550916966891401462/
[23] Raised bed pyramid:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/565131453237195790/
[29] Raised beds with tree trunks:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/150589181275073389/
[25] Raised bed, the layer filling 01 (lasagna
stratification):
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/109704940892843442/
[26] Raised bed, the layer filling 02:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/718605684262142391/
[27] Raised bed, the layer filling 03, scheme:
https://www.haus.de/garten/hochbeet-befuellen-diese-schichten-steigern-den-ernte-erfolg
[28] Raised beds in a step-L:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/230668812390599912/
[29] Raised bed, the layer filling 04:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/823877325557523335/
[30] Raised bed, the layer filling 05:
http://m.schoener-wohnen.de/bauen/garten-und-terrasse/213616-so-funktioniert-ein-hochbeet.html?utm_source=nl&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=sww
[31] Wavy raised bed undulating:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/801429696160107118/
[32] Raised bed, the layer filling 06:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/622693085947920086/
[33] Raised bed with greenhouse cover:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/100416266670110124/
[34] Cultivation area with raised beds, in the center a
six-star: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/637329784744926372/
[35] Raised bed with pallets, pallet high bed:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/627196685575500989/
[36] Raised bed with pallets, pallet high bed under
construction:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/635007616183471753/
[37] Raised bed in a circle with different sized circles
small, medium, large:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/566116615656209757/
[38] Permaculture garden, planting beds in waves:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/798333471422217308/
[39] Hillbed 01:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/342766221625942931/
[40] Hillbed 02:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/348254983681513774/
[41] Stratification (layering) of the permaculture hillbed
01, scheme: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/685180530783032598/
[42] Stratification (layering) of the permaculture hillbed
02: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/74942781278034076/
[43] Stratification (layering) of the permaculture hillbed
03: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/487866572112059521/
[44] Stratification (layering) of the permaculture hillbed
04: https://www.pinterest.de/pin/494833077788780895/
[45] Permaculture dam:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/227783693627871080/
[46] Permaculture, the flow of water on the hillside with a
channel between the hills or terracing:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/432345632958302046/
[47] Permaculture hillside beds end in mandala circle:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/161425967880668312/
[48-51] Video: Regreening the desert with John D. Liu - Docu
- 2012:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDgDWbQtlKI&t=2490s
[99] Hillbeds side by side as ray mandala on the
permaculture farm of Le Bec Hellouin, France:
Video: DOKU - Unsere
Landwirtschaft tötet Insekten und vergiftet das
Wasser -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXl71o8MrOQ
(31'1'')
[100-101]
Medical herbs garden of Munster
University (Germany) with garden beds
imitating human organs:
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/freimaurer.iserlohn/?ref=br_rs
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/anja.manne.9
sent on Sep.15, 2020
[web11]
https://store.holmgren.com.au/product/melliodora/
[web12] https://holmgren.com.au/melliodora/tours/
[web13] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Holmgren
[web14] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rob_Hopkins
[web15] https://www.thehollies.ie/
[web16] https://www.thehollies.ie/horsepower-at-the-hollies/
[web17]
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masanobu_Fukuoka
[web18] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masanobu_Fukuoka
[web19] http://www.permaculture.com/node/140
[web20] Andy Hamilton: The Ecologist: Growing without water:
how to garden in a drought:
https://theecologist.org/2010/jul/27/growing-without-water-how-garden-drought
[web31] Permakultur, der Wasserfluss am Hügelbeet mit Kanal
zwischen den Hügelbeeten oder Terrassierung:
https://www.pinterest.de/pin/432345632958302046/
[web32] Video: Hügelbeet bauen - Hugelculture (Sepp Holzer
Style) (3'25''): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KafYj_AcVs&t=30s
- YouTube-Kanal: TrilightShowroom
[web33] Video: Hügelbeet anlegen im Garten (8'56''):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-egIPX6AjU&t=15s
- YouTube-Kanal: Bio-Garten
Reich
[web34] Auf einem
Permakultur-Hügelbeet wächst pro Jahr 3 bis 4x mehr
Gemüse pro m2 als auf konventionellen Feldern der
Maschinen-Pestizid-Landwirtschaft: Video: DOKU -
Unsere Landwirtschaft tötet
Insekten und vergiftet das
Wasser:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXl71o8MrOQ
(31'0''-31'20'')
[web35] Ertrag von 50
Euro pro m2 pro Jahr: Video:
DOKU - Unsere Landwirtschaft
tötet Insekten und vergiftet das
Wasser:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXl71o8MrOQ
(30'35''-30'48'').
[web36]
https://www.biogartenreich.de/rund-ums-gärtnern/bau-eines-hügelbeets/
[web37]
https://www.wurzelwerk.net/2018/03/22/fruchtfolge-gemuesegarten-starkzehrer-mittelzehrer-schwachzehrer/
[web38]
https://www.wurzelwerk.net/2018/02/28/anbauplan-erstellen-gemuesegarten/
[web39]
https://www.wurzelwerk.net/2017/12/20/mischkultur-anbauplan/
Hillbeds arranged side by side as a ray mandala, permaculture farm of Le Bec Hellouin, France [99]
