Illinois 2022: Pit greenhouse at Red Gate Farm with earth tables like raised beds and water barrels as an additional heating in winter:
Video 1: Farm Tour Series: The Walipini; Use, Design, and Construction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qvk7Sszh6fg

See also the web site of Red Gate Farm in Illinois: https://www.redgatefarmllc.com/home

   
Illinois Red Gate Farm, title [1] -   Illinois: Pit greenhouse on Red Gate Farm, southern window front [2]


1. The plan (cross section)

In Illinois at his Red Gate Farm, he constructed a pit greenhouse with raised bed and water barrel heating, here is the plan (cross section):


Walipini pit greenhouse at Red Gate Farm with raised bed (earth table) and water barrels as a heating, cross section [36]


2. The construction work

     
Excavator work 01 general pit [3] - Excavator work 02 the trench, the raised bed remains [4]

  
The trench gets an air pipe and drainpipe, and some poles are prepared 1,2 [5,6]
     
The poles of the front wall are in the trench prepared [7] - The front wall is prepared [8] - The front wall is fixed [9]

     
In the trench are distance holders now [10] - Now the floor of the trench is put (in units of 6 pieces of walnut wood) and they serve as distance holders [11]

  
Now the back wall is prepared with columns and a big bar [12] - Roof construction is put [13]

     
See the roof construction from below [14] - Windows of twin-wall polycarbonate panels are prepared [15]

  
Twin-wall polycarbonate panels are installed on frames [16] - The twin-wall polycarbonate panels on frames are installed [17]

    
The twin wall polycarbonate panels o frames are forming a solar front line now [18] - Now the back wall is installed [19]

  
The window frame construction is completed, side view [20] - The raised bed is framed and humus is put on it [21]

   
Construction of side walls and ramp for the big entrance [22] - See the other side wall [23]

  
The ramp of the big entrance is ready [24] - The raised bed (earth table) is filled up with humus [25]

     
Some water barrels have got a water tap for human water use [26] - The raised bed has got an irrigation system with drip irrigation with the water coming from the barrels [27]

The raised bed is 45 to 48 inches wide - so 114 to 121cm.

[Better would be raised beds on BOTH sides so the warmth of the earth of the raised bed would be doubled].

  
On the rear side, the rain gutter is installed [28] - Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 01 [29]

  
Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 02 [30] - Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 03 [31]

  
Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 04 [32] - Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 05 with banana trees [33]

  
Plants in the raised bed pit greenhouse 06 with flowers [34] - The farmer in it's raised bed pit greenhouse with an insect house at the side wall [35]

So, this is the plan of this pit greenhouse (cross section):


Walipini pit greenhouse at Red Gate Farm with raised bed (earth table) and water barrels as a heating, cross section [36]

3. The tube irrigation system

     
Raised bed in the walipini is 46 to 48 inches large (116-120cm) [37] - tubes for drop irrigation at the raised bed [38]

  
Tubes for drip irrigation on the raised bed, zoom with the drop on the tube, zoom [39]
The raised bed is parted into 3 sectors with some water taps in the system [40]


4. The walkway in the trench

  
Walkway with sections removable [41] - Air and drainage pipe on the floor of the trench [42]


5. The trick on the roof with the sun's position

  
Roof construction in winter: the northern side is completely black [43] - Roof construction in summer: 1 part of the north side is transparent [44]

6. The solar window front with hot air outlets

  
Air outlets at the top of the roof for winter: they are closed [45] - Air outlets at the top of the roof for summer: they are open so the hot air goes out and some wind is in the pit greenhouse [46]

  
Window front with twin-wall polycarbonate panels [47]

7. Roof and rain water collection with filters

  
Roof: the northern side is of metal and at the top transparent [48] - Roof: rain water is collected with gutter and piping [49]

[The spillway is not shown unfortunately].

  
Gutter with a grid as a rough filter [50] - In the gutter are more filters at the entrance to the pipe [51a]


In the gutter are more filters at the entrance to the pipe, zoom [51b]

8. The water barrels serving for water supply and as additional heating

  
Rain water fills rain water barrel which also has a tissue filter [52] - Rain water fills rain water barrel which also has a tissue filter, zoom [53]

  
Tube system under the barrels 01 [54] - Tube system under the barrels 02 [55]

  
Tube system under the barrels 03 [56] - Water tap from water barrels [57]

  
Tap water for the watering can [58] - Special sectors are watered with the watering can [59]

  
Entrance with a ramp for transports with a wheel barrow [60]

9. Pests in the pit greenhouse and defense strategies: victim plants, beer traps, buzzers

  
Pests in the pit greenhouse: you plant a victim plant so the aphids and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) are only there [61] - Victim plant with holes of aphids [62]

  
Beer trap against worms, sow bugs and cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni) [63] - Buzzer with solar energy against voles (Arvicolinae) [64]


10. Examples of plants which don't accept frost: bananas, aloe vera, citrus fruits

  
The roof in winter is completely black on it's north side [65] - Seed deposit under the roof [66]

  
Seedlings in February and March [67] - Dwarf banana in the pit greenhouse on a raised bed has not enough space [68]

     
Aloe vera plant in the pit greenhouse [69] - Pomegranate in the pit greenhouse [70] -


  
Orange tree in the pit greenhouse [71] - Lime tree in the pit greenhouse [72]

  
Tropical trees will be fixed on the beams [73]


11. Personal needs

  
Row of water barrels half on concrete blocks [74] - Turnip in the pit greenhouse [75]

  
Salad zone in the pit greenhouse [76] - Farmer with bush bean in the pit greenhouse [77]

  
Farmer at his pit greenhouse in front of the solar window front  [78] - Leave a comment [79]

Supplement: Questions of the viewers
Video 2: Walipini Followup: Answering Viewer Questions
Video on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81Dsl1FWJTQ
Video on Bitchute: https://www.bitchute.com/video/3NibPRgZvHa9/

Transcription:

2-1. Problems and ideas for the next walipini
Ok, here we are back in the walipini. It's mid February, it's 5 degrees outside, it's 59 degrees here in the walipini (7''). We have had a lot of comments, a lot of questions, ah, this is more popular than we thought (13''). Today, we are going to discuss some of the issues we have had, some of the changes we would like to make if we built another one - and answer your questions (20'').

  
Video 2: farmer in the walipini pit greenhouse [80] - Video 2: title "A different Way, by Red Gate Farm, LLC" [81]

Well, first off, I want to say this: I think a lot of people thought this was our end product. [But] this is really a prototype. It's a proof of concept. We were trying to see, what you could do with absolutely NO power (40''). A lot of people have said: "Well, why don't you put a gas system in there?" - "Oh, you need fans for this, or you need this or you need that." Or: "You need to open up the back." (47'') You could do all those things if you provide power or gas or electricity or solar panels or something like this (54''). [But]: We were trying to prove the concept: Can you keep it above freezing with absolutely no supplemental power, no fans, nothing (1'3''). And so, with that in mind, the design is based on that (1'7''). And what we were hoping to do is for this thing to last 10 years, and that's about the lifespan of the twin walled polycarbonate anyway (1'15''). And: Could we learn from that in order that we could go and design which we are doing right now our off the grid home and use the concepts we learned here to design that home? (1'27'') - So, really, the knowledge we have gained is priceless (1'30'').

2-2. One barrel is leaking because of floor movement and leaking joint of a tube
But let's start first with the bad news. The bad news is: about three days before that cold snap hit the United States, we got a pretty significant leak in our water system (1'43''). Now, I want you to remember: this water system is - it's like a battery bank, it's a thermal battery bank (1'49''). So, if the water drains out of that in the winter, my thermal battery bank is gone (1'53''). Well, that joint right down there began to leak right before the cold snap (1'58'').

  
1 valve of a water barrel is leaking [82] - Barrel with feed line which is blocked with a rag [83]

I could not drain the tanks and seal it up in time for the cold snap. So, I knew it was going to be ugly (2'6''). But we thought: "Well, that is what happens." (2'10'') Why did this happen? The one change I would make, and I think I mentioned this in the other video (2'15''): this should either be on a footer or it should be compacted. It's only about 400 pounds, 450 pounds per barrel (2'22''). So, you could compact that earth and make sure it doesn't settle (2'25''). When it settles, although this PVC is pretty flexible, it can actually cause leaks in the joints and that's exactly what happened (2'34''): That one [a barrel] settled a little bit, it caused a leak in the joint at the wrong time of the year (2'38''). And so, when I lose 50 percent of my water, I have lost 50 percent of my heating capacity (2'44'').  I give you an idea, I give you a calculation: About 3 hours of sunlight gives me a net increase of 80.000 BTU [British Thermal Units] (2'52''). Now, for those of you who are engineers, ah, that's like running a space heater for about 16 hours a little uh [?], 1500 watt space heater for 16 hours (3'2''). That's a tremendous amount of heat gain that these barrels get (3'5''). But if I lose the water out of the barrels, I either get zero, or if it's half full, I get half of that (3'11'') .So you can see how important that water is (3'13''). And leaking out really destroyed us this system this time (3'17'').

2-3. Project: Install the water pipes between the water barrels in a certain height - so the first barrel is the trap for all sediments
The first of one of the changes I would make is: where the water comes in here, I would have a one-way valve up there and the drain pipe coming into the tank. Right now [in winter], I am stuffing a rag in there to prevent cold air from coming in that pipe (3'29'').

  
Barrel with feed line which is blocked with a rag [83] - Barrel with feed line which is blocked with a rag, zoom [84]

Now once that water comes into this barrel, instead of having it come out of the bottom into the feed line (3'36''), I would actually line up about 10 to 12 inches (25,4 to 30,48cm) off the bottom, and have it overflow into these tanks, and the reason I would do that: I could even bring it up to the top (3'47''). The reason I want to do that is because I want sediments to capture in that first tank, and then allow it to overflow in the next tanks (3'54''). And that's going to keep a lot of my sediments here and allow me to clean out the end barrels - maybe once or twice a year - but not have to clean out these [the next] barrels because most of it is [will be] going to be trapped right in there (4'6'').

  
Height of 10 to 12 inches where the connection tubes will be with a next water barrel heating system [85]

2-4. Project: Install valves between the tanks
Now: how do I prevent the problem I just had where I had a leak in the system, in the coldest time of the year? (4'13'') - So what I would do to fix that leak problem that I just had, is: I would put valves in that interconnecting line. If I put three valves, that gives me four different sections (4'25''). So, if I have a leak in one of those sections, I can close that section off, drain those tanks right through the drip line and go ahead and do my repair and then fill them back up again (4'36''). I didn't have that option right now, because I have no tie-in valves (4'39''). So, and I'm sure if a plumber would have helped me with this, he would have said: You know what? You probably need to put valves in there because something is going to go wrong (4'46''). I have no way to maintain this water line without draining all of the water, all 1600 gallons of water out of those tanks (4'54''). And that's not a good design. So, don't make that same mistake (4'58'').

2-5. Weather data: harsh winters, cold snaps, 12 days without sun - nights of -20ºC - light freezing is saved with trenches where the cold air flows down
Ok so, several people have asked us: What kind of temperatures are you looking at? Well, we are 40 degrees north latitude, and our growing zone is 5b roughly, we are right on the edge actually (5'10''). So, in the last two weeks, we could have had a cold snap here in the "United States" if you have been around (5'17''), ah, let me look at some of the numbers here: I am going to cheat and look at my notes (5'20''). So, for the past 12 days, we have been below freezing, um, and we've also had 12 straight days of no sun. This [today] is the first sunny day, that's why I came out here. I love being in a walipini when it's sunny, it's nice and warm (5'34'').

  
The farmer in the roof zone telling about weather and temperatures [86]

So, no sun, that really hurts us, although you DO GET some solar radiation that actually heats it up (5'40''). But during the day, the highest temperature in the last couple of weeks was 17 degrees Fahrenheit [-8,3ºC], and at night we were usually single digits really hovering around zero, down to negative five Fahrenheit [-20ºC] (5'53''). It's about seven degrees outside right now [-13ºC]. So, it's ah it was mostly single digits that we were seeing, with very little sun again, only about 2 hours of sunlight in the last two weeks (6'5''). And so, it was the worst time possible to have a leak in those barrels (6'9''). But in essence, ah, this is the first time that was a bad news, this is the first time. In several years that we've actually gone below freezing, we were coming out here and our temperatures at night - ah - on some of the coldest nights, we have got around zero and below, it was down to 28 degrees [-2ºC], so we actually did get below freezing (6'27''). But we still have water in the barrels, and you can see the top of our citrus trees are looking better because that cold air - the way we design this - the cold air comes down, goes over the grow bed and drops into the cold sink (6'40''). So it actually protected the tops of our citrus here (6'42''). And some of the pants down here can withdraw the cold temperatures anyway (6'48''). So, we were able to - ah - get some survival rate, even though our system somewhat failed (6'55'').

  
The citrus trees were not suffering from freezing [87] - Lime tree had no problems with a short freeze because all cold air landed in the trench [88]

2-6. Principle: the roof has to be black on the north side
But while I am up here, I want to talk a little bit about the roof (6'58''). Some people had asked me: why did I not glaze the backside? Ok, remember, this is completely off the grid, there is no supplemental heat. You can glaze the backside, and you will get more sun on the back side of these plants now in the summer (7'15''). These come out, and I would still do that. But as far as why  did I not glaze the backside? is because I have to look at total energy in and total energy out. You want to minimize your surface area, that is a net energy loss (7'31'').

Black northern roof [89]

Ok, so you're losing a lot of energy on the north side, ok? (7'36'') - And if I had mylar [?] sheets or if I had a supplemental heater, or if I had a gap system with fans and stuff, then I can afford to do that and I would glaze that (7'46''). But I don't have any of that. So I really have to watch you know, where is my net flow out, and that backside is a huge net flow out (7'55''). So, I had to protect that, ok? (7'57'') And in the summer I will pull this down [the upper part of the protection], and get more light out of there (8'1'').

2-7. Principle: the rain water of the southern window front is NOT collected because its basement is too low
So, people have asked me why didn't you collect water off the south wall. The reason I don't collect water off that south wall is because it would be collected lower than the tanks, and I would then have to pump the water into the tanks again (8'15''). There is NO energy in this walipini so I did not want to pump anything (8'20''). So, the back is sloped so that I can get maximum collection in the back which is above the barrels, and I don't have to pump any water (8'29''). It's all gravity fed (8'31'').

  
The basement of the window front is lower than the tanks, so the rain water of the window front is not collected [90]

2-8. The northern part of the roof is inclined for reducing the air space in the hall
The other reason for this sloping back [side of the roof] is because if I sloped it up, I could gather more solar radiation, but then I significantly increase [reduce!] the air space in the walipini (8'41''). I am minimizing the surface air on the outside [as] also minimizing the air space inside the walipini, so I don't have to heat a large area (8'51'').

2-9. Project about airflow: some tubes are missing in the trench for more natural ventilation with automatic airflow: Tubes will go underground for several 100 feet and the air is adopting to the earth's temperature
So, going back to the changes that I would make: airflow, airflow, airflow (8'57''). Ok, plants need carbon dioxide, but also, if you can use that ground heat more efficiently, that's the way to go (9'5''). The ground air heat transfer system that you've seen sometimes called gap system (9'8''), those are wonderful systems, I think [that] some people have really really modified that to work to their advantage and done a great job with that (9'18''). A great supplement to this type of system. I think [Mr.] Russ Finch has mastered this system with his greenhouse in the snow (9'24''). But again: a gap system a lot of times requires supplemental electricity. Can you do that without electricity? And absolutely you can (9'34'').

  
Farmer in the trench: airflow is missing because tubes are missing in the trench [91]

We got a lot of airflow in here just because of convection, ok? The hot air rises, it goes out [rising by] the vents we put in the top, that system seems to work really well, but what I didn't do is: I didn't put enough ground tubes into the cold sink (9'47''). I would make it 10 or 20 times as many tubes coming into the system. Now you need to have drainage if you are [have] a high water table. But really I would bury pipes several 100 feet away from the walipini and bring them in under the floor (10'5''). And when that heat gets hot enough and those vents are open on the top, it's going to naturally suck that air through the ground and up through the top (10'13''). Now, in the winter I may have to use some fans to pull that air through the ground and into the greenhouse (10'20''). But I think, adding a system like that would significantly improve this design and bring that temperature extreme down even more (10'31''). It would make it cooler in the summer, and it wold make it warmer in the winter (10'35'').

[This tube system comes from Michael Raynolds, he is ventilating his Earth Ships also like this with tubes passing the earth adopting their temperature].

2-10. Project: stable front wall and a safe basement for the water barrels
Another change that I talked about before was this front wall [the southern wall]: It needs to be either a poured front wall or brick or something (10'42''). This I think it was fine for what we did: we had a hole, we were trying to just use the materials that we had, but I would definitely pour a front wall here all the way down, and then have drain tile and gravel on the bottom there (10'58''), and then, if I had the concrete truck out here, I would probably run a footer there [basement for the water barrels], I have debated whether I should run a footer for the tanks or if I should just use compaction (11'9''). Check with your local engineer if you have got some good clay soil (11'13''). You should be able to run a compactor on the back, that's about 13,000 pounds or so, it's about 13,000 pounds of water (11'22''), it's about 450 pounds per barrel, so you should be able to compact it enough but what I am gonna have to do now is drain the entire system, recompact it and reset that and you don't want to have to do that five years down the road (11'33'').

2-11. Project: watch temperatures with multiple thermometers
Another change I would make is: if you really want to monitor temperature and humidity, you really need to do it in different parts of the walipini. You have got grow bed temperatures, you have got front wall temperatures, you have got cold sink temperatures, and you have got barrel temperatures (11'49''). I would add a thermometer to the barrels to monitor water temperature. One thing that allows you to do is ah to see if you are ready for a big cold snap (11'59'').

  
Multithermometer [92]

It also lets you calculate the net gain of thermal. What I do to calculate that is: I actually check water temperature, and then I see how many days or how many hours of sunlight check water temperature again and see how much it's going up. It's a pretty easy calculation (12'14''). But put multiple thermometers around, because it has microclimates in here, and you can put plants in different places to capitalize on that (12'23''). So, let's walk over here. I am going to show you a perfect example of a microclimate that you would be able to capture with multiple thermometers (12'31'').

2-12. Principle: Water barrels heating: little aloe pups near the water barrels - principle: plants which need warmth are near the water barrels
As you know, we had a [problem] this year because of the water system, and the cold snap (12'41''), but I want you to look behind ah the mama aloe here: see these pups, ok, they are doing fine, they are firm, they are spry, even though the big plant took quite a hit, these in the back were protected and look: they are closer to the barrels (12'57''). So, that heat kept coming off the barrel and [was] protecting those little pups in the back (13'2''). So, you can strategically place your plants to take advantage of that (13'7'').

  
Aloe Vera plant suffered a freeze damage [93] - Pups of the aloe vera plant are growing near the water barrel heating [94]

2-13. Principle: irrigation+planting and also the harvest is by sectors - in February, 2 sectors were harvested and in 1 sector vegetables are growing, yet
Now, a lot of this - this is the end of February - a lot of this is harvested (13'11''). We are coming here for soups and salads and stews and all sorts of things, so we have plucked out the majority of the food on this end, and if we go down here, so section one and two are almost completely harvested (13'27''). We have still got some here in section three (13'29'').

  
February: Sector 1 + 2 are harvested and empty now [95] - February: sector 3 is full with growing vegetables, yet [96]

Ah, the cabbages are still coming up, we will leave those in spring, and the kohlrabishes are doing okay now (13'36''). Because of our water system failure, we had to say: well, are we going to water or are we going to leave it in the tanks for warmth? I wanted to leave it in the tanks for warmth, so our carrots, kind of drop down, so they may not be the biggest and the best, but any of you who grow carrots, you can just leave them in the ground and see what happens back. I can pull this little guy up here and see how it's doing: It's tiny but still healthy, they have still got a good root on them (13'57''). So, I think we can leave them in there and keep them going and see how they do (14'2'').

  
Baby carrot has to grow, yet [97]

2-14. Principle in February: harvesting everything for making room for seedlings
These turnips are ready for harvesting. We need to get those out of there and get those inside (14'7''). We will leave the leeks for spring (14'9''). And, we need to get rid of this down here, the arugola, we have already harvested that and it started bolting, so we just need to take that out (14'18''). A lot of this we need to get out of here because we have got the seed, the seed plants are already inside in the basement, and the grow lights we are going to transfer that out here because within about two weeks it's going to be warm enough in here to have all our plants starts out here for the spring (14'33''). So this stuff needs to come out and harvested, and then we are going to get those ah seed trays down here (14'40''), we are going to get the planks up top and put the seed trays up there and this will transition from a garden to our start garden if you will (14'51'').

2-15. Principle: let the snow on the roof as an insulator layer - let the snow before the steep window front as an insulator
So you can see the front wall being as steep as it is: the snow when the sun comes out it generally falls right off the front (14'58''). Now, a lot of times in the morning if it snowed overnight, I will actually come and brush it off a little bit, because you want that to get through there (15'7''). But the back side, you definitely want to leave the snow on the top, it is a great insulator, especially now when it's in single digits, a nice good three or four inches of snow on the back is a great insulator (15'16''). And in fact, I leave it [the snow on the window front] down here on the bottom, too. It's like perfect insulation (15'21'').

  
Farmer in front of the window front in the snow 1,2 [98,99]

2-16. Principle: This walipini was a prototype - the plan was only 1 sheet of paper
A lot of you have asked: "Hey, do you have plans for that that you can send me?" "Do you have a pdf?" Well, like I said: it was a prototype, it was a proof of concept (15'31''). I am not kidding when I said I sat down at the dining room table with a French engineer and in about two hours we drew this on a piece of paper (15'40''). And that piece of paper was carried in my pocket and it's all wrinkled up. You don't want to get that (15'44'').

2-17. Project: complete farm off the grid
We are going to try to put something together though because I would love to share this knowledge (15'50''). Even better than the plans for this, we intend to have plans to go completely off the grid, we are going to probably have new property, and we are going to do some crazy things like using more horsepower, and designing our house and our walipini and every structure that we have on this type of design so that we can use natural passive solar energy to power the entire place (16'13''). So, keep watching and in the next couple of years, you can follow us through that adventure (16'18'').

  
Farmer with woman and dog [100]


See also the web site of Red Gate Farm in Illinois: https://www.redgatefarmllc.com/home

Comment 1: How to have more warmth in the greenhouse: side walls of earth, doubled raised bed, piano music, banana+papaya plants without raised bed
Aug 18, 2022ca., contact form: https://www.redgatefarmllc.com/contact_us

Hi, I see your walipini pit greenhouse. For more warmth for your next walipini:
-- install the side walls in earth walls, and
-- double the raised bed at the other side, so you double the warmth inside. And
-- there is news about meditation piano music in greenhouses which kills pests because of vibration. And
-- when you want banana and papaya etc., just have a section without raised bed for them.

I think angles are not so important, but the mass of earth you have inside. Farmers can have tube walipinis 100m long is replacing a field.
Permaculture with earth cultivation leaving the roots in the earth is another element for more fertility and vegetables become always more resistent and bigger.
At the end you have pit tube greenhouse with two trenches and 4 raised beds with 100m of lenght and 5 of them is a whole farm during summer AND winter.
Have a nice day,


Comment 2: split the water system into 3 parts - the form of the walipini 5:3
Aug 18, 2022ca., contact form: https://www.redgatefarmllc.com/contact_us

Dear farmer of Red Gate Farm, the solution for the tanks is like for the raised bed: you parted the raised bed into 3 sectors. So get also the tanks split into 3 sectors and you loose only 1/3 when there is a repair. You can even make 3 entrances in the gutter for this, and when there is a repair, just shut one hole of the gutter.
And of course 400 pounds need a stable basement of bricks. There was a walipini in Bozeman in Canada: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1Aoj0QXrLM
He has the water barrels on a raised bed with wooden rim leaning on the wall.
The principle is always: split the risk, split a big unity into some little units so a repair is not damaging the whole thing.
As a model for a new walipini when I would be a farmer and when I had money, I would build the walipini of Ladakh (https://www.solaripedia.com/files/1257.pdf) [FALSE, this is the instruction about the walipini in Bolivia of 2002] but with your ventilation system, with your water system and with trenches in the ground for having raised beds. The form should be at least (my estimation) 5:3, so when you have 50m of lenght, it should be at least 25m large for having enough earth walls heating the space up.
Have a nice day and congratulations to your farm, Michael Palomino -
Web site with Mother Earth: http://www.med-etc.com/index-ENGL.html


See the instruction of Ladakh: https://ashdenawards.blogspot.com/2010/01/geres-constructing-solar-greenhouses-in.html

Here is the pdf about the walipini of Ladakh: https://www.solaripedia.com/files/1087.pdf (61 pages)

Comment 3: variation of the Ladakh walipini and get a patent
Aug 19, 2022ca., contact form: https://www.redgatefarmllc.com/contact_us

Hi, here is the Ladakh walipini documentation 61 pages pdf from NGO Geres:
https://www.solaripedia.com/files/1087.pdf
Varying this model will be excellent with two or three trenches and with your water system and air system, always split, not more than 5 barrels in one sector connected. YOu get a patent and make the same business like Michael Reynolds selling the Walipinis as a set. Have 2 sizes, 10 x 20 m, and 50 x 35 m. You will be ambassador for walipinis as Raynolds is for earthships.
Have a nice day, kind regards to Illinois.
Michael Palomino
history - sociology - natural medicine
http://www.med-etc.com/index-ENGL.html